Care Guide for the Monstera Peru

The Monstera Peru (monstera karstenianum) may be a rare and exotic houseplant but it is easy to care for with similar needs as other monsteras and philodendrons. The Peru has the characteristic split leaves of monstera varieties but also a beautifully textured dark green foliage that appears almost corrugated. New growth comes in bright green with mature leaves being about the size of a human hand. This plant is also fabulous for an office or business space as it doesn't need a lot of natural light while also doing well under artifical light.

The Monstera Peru is a climbing epiphyte meaning it grows on other plants for support and sources its water and nutrients from the air. Compared to other monsteras such as the Deliciosa or Adansonii which are fast growers, the Monstera Peru is a relatively slow grower though it can reach heights of 6 to 8 feet (2 meters) indoors. The best way to grow this plant is using a moss pole, bamboo or wall clips (I use these everywhere). While you can place it in a hanging basket and let it vine these plants climb trees in the wild and will have stronger, larger growth if allowed to grow up as opposed to hang down.

You may also see the Monstera Peru listed as Epipremnum Marble Planet or as a Green Galaxy. It is often confused with the Monstera Siltepecana but they can be differentiated in two ways. The Siltepecana has a silvery sheen to its leaves and the leaves are smooth without the characteristic ridges the Peru has.

Not shockingly, this Monstera comes from the tropical regions of Peru. As a result it prefers warm, humid climates and a lower light indicative of its natural habitat growing on the sides of trees. Overall, the Monstera Peru is a rare, tropical, low-maintenance house plant that I cannot recommend enough.

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SOIL: Since the Monstera Peru is an epiphyte it needs airy, well-draining soil. The best solution is to mix your own soil using one part coco coir, one part orchid bark and one part perlite. Orchid bark and coco coir are rich and nutrient providing while perlite provides aeration. Coco coir comes in bricks and needs to be soaked in water to expand and be torn apart. If you don't want to mix your own here is a premixed pack I recommend.

HUMIDITY: As expected of a tropical peruvian plant, this plant loves humidity. If you do not live in a humid environment you can attempt to recreate this by placing your plant in a bathroom, laundry room or kitchen. If this isn’t possible then you can invest in a humidifier, mist the plant regularly (I love this continous mister), or place the plant on a tray of pebbles with water in the tray just below the gravel line.

TEMPERATURE: The Monstera Peru naturally perfers warm, humid climates that replicate its native region of Peru. Keep your monstera in 60-85°F (15.5-29.5°C). Avoid cold drafts from AC units and open windows. If you bring your plant outside in the summer make sure the temperatures aren't dropping too low at night.

LIGHT: The Monstera Peru doesn't need as much light as the monstera deliciosa. While medium to bright light indirect light is ideal, if you are farther south than a northern window will be more than acceptable. Otherwise placing your monstera a few feet back from an eastern, western or southern window so that it receives bright indirect light will give you a healthy, happy plant. If your monstera gets too much bright, direct light the leaves can get sun scorched. The Monstera Peru also does well in artifical light. Peep this article where I cover how to use artifical plant lights.

WATER: The Monstera Peru is sensitive to overwatering. Growing as an epiphyte in the tropical understory it gets its moisture through its aerial roots. Additionally, the Peru has thick leaves which help it retain water. When in doubt underwater. Let the top few inches of soil dry out before watering again. If your plant sits in water for an extended period of time it can develop root rot. Early signs will come in the form of yellowing leaves that drop early.

FERTILIZER: Fertilizer isn't a hard requirement but can help your plant grow faster. It is important to fertilize in the growing season, spring and summer. A generic fertilizer for house plants can be used once a month.

PRUNING: Pruning isn't necessary for this vine but can be useful to stimulate thicker growth. I like to occasionally cut back the growth so that I can propagate new babies and get a more dense plant. If your plant is getting leggy than this is a good short term solution but you need to address the cause of the legginess which is generally not enough sunlight.

Common Questions

POTTING: The Monstera Peru does not like to be root bound but you need to avoid potting it into too large a planter. Too much soil means extra water retention which this plant does not want. That being said make sure your pot has a good drainge hole. If your monstera starts showing signs of pushing out of the pot or roots coming out the sides and bottom than you need to repot. Try to do this in the growing season (spring and summer) as that is the least stressful time. I have a guide to repotting if you need help.

PESTS: Monsteras are susceptible to a common houseplant pests such as gnats, scale, mites, and mealy bugs. If you notice signs of an infestation than isolate your plant immediately. Use rubbing alcohol on a Q-tip or a cotton ball or an insecticidal soap to kill the insects. Then apply a gentle insecticide like neem oil to prevent another infestation.

PROPAGATION: We love plant babies! Giving friends starters is my love language and monsteras are very easy to propagate. Their ability to pop out roots of their nodes makes it a quick process.

1. Start by selecting a stem. You want a stem that has multiple nodes as that is where the roots will come out.
2. Use clean scissors or shears and cut an inch or two below the lowest node.
3. If you have any leaves close to the nodes near the base (ie what will be in the water) then remove them.
4. Place your cutting in a vase of water ensuring a couple nodes are submerged. Change the water out every week to prevent rotting.
5. You can place your cutting into soil, again making sure a couple of nodes are covered. You just want to ensure high humidity for the fresh soil cuttings. Make sure the soil is moist upon planting.
6. Place the cutting in a location that receives medium to bright indirect light.
7. If you placed your cutting in water than wait until you have a few roots that are at least 1-2 inches long before planting. Water thoroughly after planting.

PETS: Since it is a species of monstera, the Monstera Peru is considered toxic to dogs, cats, and humans, similar to its cousins the monstera deliciosa and monstera adansonii.

FLOWERS: While Monstera Peru flower when grown in the wild, it is unusual for them to flower indoors. Don’t worry if you never see any blooms on your plant!

LEAF ISSUES: This plant likes to tell you how it is feeling through its leaves. If you get yellow or dropping leaves than it is generally a sign of overwatering. Let the soil dry out before watering, use fast draining soil, and make sure your pot has drainage holes. Yellow leaves can also be a sign of distress. Was your plant recently moved? Is it in a drafty location? Did you repot it in winter? Dropping leaves can also be a sign of underwatering but that is accompanied by a general dropping. Once you water the plant should perk up within a few hours.

Pale or fading leaves along with sun-bleached spots can be a sign of too much sun. Avoid extended periods of direct sunlight especially if you are located farther south on the globe. These monsteras do not need as much light as other varietals.

Crispy leaf edges can be a sign lack of humidity, or too much sun. Assess your light and if you do not feel that is the problem then up your humidity. Reference the humidity section above for help.

LEGGY GROWTH: This vine can get leggy which can be mended with pruning and propagation. However to fully fix the problem you need to make sure your plant is getting enough sunlight. Legginess is always connected to a lack of sunlight as the plant has to stretch to reach for the light.