Care Guide for the ‘Angel Wing’ Cane Begonia

Types of Angel Wing Begonias

There are about 81 species considered Cane Begonias and within that almost 2,000 cultivars of those species. Not all Cane Begonias are Angel Wings as many types have rounded, elongated or star-shaped leaves. Angel Wing is the common name for a few different begonias. The most commonly associated species are Begonia Coccinea, Begonia Maculata, Begonia Corallina and Begonia Dietrichiana. The biggest idenitfying factor is dots and streaks on the angel wing leaf with many having red undersides. This isn’t absolute. The dietrichiana has smooth green leaves and no markings. Here are a few of the most common types:

• Begonia Maculata - This is one of the most common angel wings with its dark green leaves, rich red underside, and large silver spots. The red underside is said to have inspired fashion designer Christian Louboutin to create his trademark red-soled stilettos. Maculata’s can have white or pink flowers and reach fairly large sizes of 3 feet (1 meter).

• Begonia Albopicta - Albopictas have smaller leaves of around 3 inches (8cm) with wavy edges and a lance-shape. They are a medium, glossy green with tiny, silver spots. The flowers are a white-green and grow in clusters. There is a Rosea variety that has pink flowers.

• Begonia Lucerna - This is one of my favorite varietals as the leaves are quite large and the plant itself can get to 7 feet tall (2 meters). The leaves are olive green with silver spots, an oval shape, and have a slight ruffle. They produce large clusters of pink flowers.

• Begonia Dietrichiana - This variety is unique in that it does not have those iconic silver spots. The leaves are a bright green, velvety and have a lovely sheen. The outer edge and the underside has a red hue like a fall leaf. It produces pink flowers. Dietrichiana - This variety is unique in that it does not have those iconic silver spots. The leaves are a bright green, velvety and have a lovely sheen. The outer edge and the underside has a red hue like a fall leaf. It produces pink flowers.

How to Care for your Angel Wing Begonia

SOIL: Begonias prefer a soil full of organic matter that can retain moisture but not so much so that the soil is soggy. You can use a generic house plant soil but mixing in compost is helpful while also avoiding peat. The heavier soil helps weight down the tall stems of Cane Begonias. That being said you do not want to get root rot so using a terracotta pot can help balance this out.

TEMPERATURE: Begonias prefer a warmer environment of 55-75°F (15-22°C) and can do well outside during the summer. If your temperatures drop below 40 then you risk harming your plant so bring inside come autumn. If you leave your plant inside year round then avoid drafts from things like air conditioners.

HUMIDITY: As expected of a rainforest plant, Cane Begonias love humidity. If you do not live in a humid environment you can attempt to recreate this by placing your plant in a bathroom, laundry room or kitchen. If this isn’t possible then you can invest in a humidifier, mist the plant regularly (I love this continous mister), or place the plant on a tray of pebbles with water in the tray just below the gravel line.

LIGHT: Cane Begonias like bright, indirect light though I have found success having them in east and north facing windows. The low light of morning is not too much for these plants but if you move them outside during the summer then be even more cautious to avoid direct sunlight. If your plant does not receive enough sunlight it will not flower.

WATER: Begonias like to be kept moist but not water logged. If your plant starts to sag, look wilty or get brown edges on the leaves then that it a sign of underwatering. Brown edges can also mean a lack of humidity. Let the top inch of soil dry out and then water thoroughly and let the plant drain. In the winter reduce your watering.

FERTILIZER: Feed your plant with fertilizer every two weeks during the growing season (May to September). You can use generic liquid fertilizer however if you want to increase the chance of blooming, use high phosphorous fertilizer in early spring.

STAKING: Staking Cane Begonias is essential over a certain height. Their canes can become brittle as they reach taller heights. That combined with their shallow root system and heavy leaves can lead to them tipping over. Use bamboo or plant stakes to help support the plant.

Common Questions

POTTING: Beognias prefer a tiny home over a mansion. Let them get root bound. When you bring home your begonia from the nursery be sure to remove it from the pot and check the root to soil ratio. Nurseries like to overpot so that they can charge for a larger plant. You need to repot when your plant has exhausted the soil or is pushing out of the planter. When you do repot, do so at the start of the growing season. If your plant has blooms though delay repotting.

PESTS: Watch out for infestations of aphids, red spider mite and powdery mildew. Use rubbing alcohol on a Q-tip or a cotton ball or an insecticidal soap to kill the insects. Then apply a gentle insecticide like neem oil to prevent another infestation.

LEAVES: Brown edges to the leaves can be caused by low humidity or underwatering (see humidty and water sections). Yellow or dropping leaves can be cause by overwatering or low light,

FLOWERS: If your plant does not flower it could be due to low light. If your flowers drop then it can be under watering or drafts of cold or dry air.

PROPAGATION: One of the most exciting things about begonias is how easy they are to propagate. My mom is always trading her begonias with her friends and neighbors. For all methods the best time to do this is in early spring at the start of the growing season. Cane Begonias can be propagated a couple ways:

• Division
  • Remove the root ball and using a sharp, clean knife divide the ball into smaller sections making sure its a mix of old and new growth.
  • Place each new plant in a fresh pot and water.
  • Keep humidity as high as possible by using a humidifer, covering in clear plastic/tarp, or placing on a tray of gravel with water filled under the gravel line.
• Stem Cutting
  • First you must locate a point on the stem where new roots, leaves or buds are shooting out. These are called nodes.
  • You want to take 3-4in (7-10cm) cutting starting about half an inch below a node as new roots will come out here. You can remove the leaves from those first few nodes as they will be pushed into the potting medium.
  • For an extra boost dip the stem cutting in rooting hormone.
  • Insert into a sandy compost material and water thoroughly.
  • Make sure to keep the cutting in a warm and humid area in bright indirect light.

PETS: This plant is toxic to pets if ingested in large qunaitites as it contains large amounts of a substance known as oxalate.